Cone 9-10 Glaze Tests

Glaze Tests

Glaze name: Purple Chun
Cone: 10
Color: Red-purple
Testing:
Surface: Gloss
Firing: Reduction
Glaze type: Chun
Transparency: Opaque
Recipe:
Custer feldspar 26.00
Flint 29.50
Whiting 15.10
EPK 1.80
Ball clay 5.60
Soda ash 7.10
Frit 3134 11.30
Barium carbonate 4.00
Tin oxide 1.10
Copper carbonate 0.50
Comments:
from Linda Arbuckle. Plummy.

Glaze name: Matt Strontium Crystal Magic Steven Hill
Cone: 10
Color: White
Testing:
Surface: Satin matt
Firing: Reduction
Glaze type: Strontium matt
Transparency: Opaque
Visual texture: Mottled
Crystals: Medium
Recipe:
Custer feldspar 46.00
Whiting 17.30
Tile 6 clay 14.90
Strontium carbonate 12.60
Frit 3124 4.60
Lithium carbonate 4.60
Titanium dioxide 13.80
Bentonite 2.00
Comments:
Clay Times Jan/Feb 2007 p 53. Steven Hill glaze. White matt w/golden crystals, best
at a hot cone 10

Glaze name: Angel Eyes
Cone: 10
Color:
Testing:
Surface:
Firing:
Recipe:
EPK 10.00
Whiting 20.00
Silica 30.00
Potash feldspar 40.00
Red iron oxide 3.33
Rutile 3.33
Comments:
Here's an iron blue that I like. Gives a fine hare's fur glossy
surface. The glaze has a tendency to settle a bit. We've also played
with extra rutile and more reduction to increase the depth of the
blue. submitted by: Richard Gralnik e-mail: rlg@patuxent.desktalk.com
source for original recipe: El Camino College

Glaze name: Berryrust
Cone: 7 - 10
Color: cranberry rust red
Testing:
Surface:
Firing:
Recipe:
Silica 27.27
EPK 18.18
Nepheline syenite 18.18
Dolomite 9.09
Gerstley borate 9.09
Talc 9.09
Bone ash 9.09
Red iron oxide 9.09
Comments:
Use Pure Red Iron Oxide . This glaze gives a fairly intense cranberry
rust in the cone 7-10 range and is quite consistent in its results.
Every once in a while, when the glaze is thicker than normal, a pale
but distinctive green (a little like a pale chrome green) begins to
float on the surface. Any suggestions as to why? In addition, in
reference to an earlier note about the changing reds over time, I
think this red becomes somewhat brighter (and more red) the older the
glaze is. I don't yet use a lot of it so it sits for quite a while
(3-5 months). submitted by: Bob Kavanagh e-mail:
bkav@VAX2.CONCORDIA.CA

Glaze name: Blatant Blue
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: deep blue
Testing:
Surface: glossy
Firing: reduction
Recipe:
Flint 32.65
Whiting 19.39
G-200 feldspar 27.55
Kentucky OM #4 20.41
Cobalt carbonate 2.04
Comments:
from Ellen Baker Rich glossy deep blue. no crazing (although it's
hard to tell with such a deep blue)

Glaze name: Blue Carlton Mottled
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: lavender to blue
Testing:
Surface: glossy
Firing: reduction
Transparency: Opaque
Visual texture: Mottled
Recipe:
G-200 feldspar 43.70
EPK 1.90
Flint 28.30
Whiting 2.70
Gerstley borate 9.10
Dolomite 9.10
Zinc oxide 1.80
Strontium carbonate 3.40
Tin oxide 2.70
Rutile 4.20
Copper carbonate 0.50
Bentonite 3.10
Comments:
Heavy texture glossy glaze. Lavender to blue over white
slip. Nice rutile blue where thick breaking to brown.
All the glazes were tested on #900 Miller clay which is a toasty ^10
stoneware. One side of the test tile was brushed with a thick coating
of Cynthia Bringle's wet/dry white slip. Each glaze was dipped in
three thicknesses on a heavily textured tile. All tiles were fired to
a (hard)^9 (10 tipping)reduction firing. 1 hr. Body reduction at ^08
and 1 hr. glaze reduction at ^9 then a quick reox. before shutdown.
Any time potash or Custer spar is called for, I used G-200. All ball
clay is OM-4 . Many glazes I substituted 75% of the amount of Barium
with Strontium. All kaolin is EPK.  Tracy Wilson Saltbox Pottery 4 Shaw Rd. Woolwich, ME
04579 phone: 207-443-5586 fax: 207-442-8922 email: saltbox@ime.net
web: http://www.ime.net/~dwilson/

Glaze name: Blue green Satin Mat Clemson U
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: blue green
Testing:
Surface: satin matte
Firing:
Recipe:
G-200 feldspar 38.69
Whiting 20.10
EPK 20.10
Flint 15.08
Rutile (light) 6.03
Cobalt carbonate 1.01
Comments:
This is a Blue to Green Satin mat that has alot of nice qualities you
might enjoy. Thin its green and when doubledipped its soft light blue
. It also takes other oxides well, is food safe and stays in
suspension. Good Luck, Mike Vatalaro in Clemson vatalam@clemson.edu
Glaze name: Blue Moceri Matt
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: turquoise to lavender
Testing:
Surface: Matt
Firing: reduction
Transparency: Opaque
Recipe:
Flint 4.36
EPK 7.63
Nepheline syenite 65.39
Strontium carbonate 20.44
Lithium carbonate 2.18
Copper oxide 1.64
Bentonite 2.18
Comments:
from Ellen Baker similar to Copper blue (#1) Turquoise stony matt.
Goes to lavender over slip 

Glaze name: Blue Persimmon
Cone: 10
Color: blue
Testing: Untested
Surface: Gloss
Firing: reduction
Transparency: Opaque
Flow: Slight
Recipe:
G-200 feldspar 71.40
Silica 14.30
Whiting 14.30
Red iron oxide 2.00
Rutile 3.10
Cobalt carbonate 0.50
Bentonite 3.10
Comments:
 It is shiny and breaks brown to
blue My students keep it rather thick in the bucket for the desired
blue and it doesn't seem to run very much at all. It is a blue glaze
but a nice blue glaze and it works well with a lot of other glazes.
submitted by: Jim Connell e-mail: connellj@winthrop.edu

Glaze name: Blue Persimmon Glossy
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: Rust to bright blue Opaque
Testing: Untested
Surface: Glossy
Firing: Reduction
Glaze type: Ca K RutileBlue
Recipe:
K-200 spar 68.00
Whiting 16.00
Flint 16.00
Iron oxide 2.00
Rutile 3.00
Bentonite 3.00
Comments:
Rust color where thin, rich blue where thick. Custer spar can be
subbed for K-200. Glaze Type: Ca K RutileBlue. Opacity: Opaque.
Firing type: Reduction From Val Cushing. VC ed

Glaze name: Blue Royal
Cone: 10
Color: royal blue
Testing:
Surface: matte
Firing: Ox. or Red.
Transparency: Opaque
Recipe:
Custer spar 40.83
Whiting 16.97
Strontium carbonate 5.30
EPK 20.89
Silica 16.01
Titanium dioxide 4.77
Cobalt carbonate 1.91
Bentonite 1.06
Comments:
Non- toxic version of barium matt blue. Stable, strong color. I use
Dave's porcelain from Laguna. Dean McRaine <beezer@aloha.net> on the
north shore of Kauai

Glaze name: Chun - Brayford
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: chun blue
Testing:
Surface: glossy shiny
Firing: Reduction
Glaze type: Chun
Transparency: Translucent
Recipe:
Potash feldspar 42.60
Flint 29.70
Whiting 19.80
Talc 5.00
Kaolin 2.00
Gerstley borate 1.00
Red iron oxide 1.00
Comments:
>Does anyone have a reliable recipe for a Chun Blue or other Blue that
does well in reduction over an iron rich claybody. ....... Anne Worner
Yes! I have been using this glaze for some years - it originated with
Derek Emms and was published in Ceramic Review. Needs reduction ^9 -
10 The firing temp affects it considerably. Works well over Tenmoku
type glazes or dark bodies. The colour is an optical effect and the
dark body helps the colour. pierre brayford
<pierre.brayford@virgin.net>

Glaze name: Conrad G375 Moonlight Blue
Cone: 10
Color: rutile blue
Testing:
Surface: glossy
Firing: Oxidation
Recipe:
Cornwall Stone 63.81
Gerstley borate 14.30
Silica (A-25 best) 7.60
Whiting 7.60
EPK 4.80
Zinc oxide 1.90
Cobalt carbonate 0.50
Rutile (powdered) 3.20
Ilmenite (325 mesh best) 2.00
Comments:
(Mile Hi in Denver has Ilmenite). Likes a fast cooling to develop
that electric blue. One dip gives you brown, two dips a deep blue.
Tends to break on ridges. Where real heavy you get white. Flows quite
a bit, especially combined with other glazes. Watch your bottom
feet,try to give it a good foot or a strong ridge to stop flow.
Tapering the bottom edge with a straight edge helps too. Otherwise
your shelf will be a beautiful shade of blue. If thick, tends to
pinhole, likes to dry and be rubbed out before firing. Tempermental
glaze---can crawl just enough to make you crazy generally under rims
and on the inside of rims....probably is thicker there and shrinks
when drying. To Mix, we've found it best to dissolve the Cornwall
first and let set a bit, then add everything else. Screen through a
40 once and an 80mesh twice for finest crystalization. This is a
compilation of several background messages re: the Conrad Moonlight.
We use Conrads Moonlight (which was discussed about 6 months ago
here) with about 1/2%cobalt Carb. added. It's a cone 10 glaze. I
first started using it in electric firing, and a year ago switched to
gas. At first in the gas, it was muddier and tended toward rutile
blue-green. Then, experimenting, we cooled the kiln faster to match
the curve of the electrics. Voila, nice sharp crystals and blue. It
also seems to be quite sensitive to temperature, over fire it and it
grabs iron from anywhere and goes blue green or brownish. I also
might note that it is quite sensitive to application. It must go on
thick to develop a good blue. (even sometimes giving almost purple).
Thick in the bucket, double dip as soon as the sheen leaves, dry
completely, then rub lightly everywhere and especially on compund
curves. This is a Cornwall recipe and tends to crawl if not thorughly
bonded to the clay surface. The thickness required doesn't help.
Don't know what it might do at c6 but if you can get it there, the
above notes might help. One note, I mentioned that it's sensitive to
temp. It's happiest between 9-1/2 and 10-1/2. Also we use it on a
white stoneware. On iron body clays, it tends toward blue green or
brown-green...not too pretty. Joyce brought up a good pointThe rutile
blue Moonlight from Conrad (G375) is r understand, most rutile blues
are. The way we work around this is to provide a ridge at the foot
and, when Betsy applies the glaze, she takes a stainless rib and
carves a taper into the ridge. Sounds time consuming, and is, but it
goes pretty fast after you've done (not had) a few. The main time we
lose pieces from running now is where there's an overlap with another
glaze, especially Temmoku. But by keeping it high on the pot, it can
be controlled. Good Luck. It can be a fantastic rutile blue, best
I've seen. I'll be off the list for a week, at Rosen, but will pull
digests during the week. Tom Wirt Clay Coyote Pottery Hutchinson, MN
claypot@hutchtel.net

Glaze name: Copper Red Peach Blossom
Cone: 10
Color: Pink
Testing:
Surface: glossy, shiny
Firing: Reduction
Glaze type: Copper red (Peach bloom)
Transparency: Semi-opaque
Recipe:
Flint 42.08
Nepheline syenite 27.85
Gerstley borate 17.26
Dolomite 12.82
Copper carbonate 0.30
Yellow ochre 0.30
Tin oxide 0.30
Bentonite 1.51
Comments:
will run a little, don't overfire. Rich surface. Dean McRaine <beezer@aloha.net> on the
north shore of Kauai

Glaze name: George's Strawberry Crush
Cone: 9
Color: red/ blue/ purple/ white
Testing:
Surface: glossy shiny
Firing:
Recipe:
Potash feldspar 45.45
Flint 25.25
Whiting 14.14
Zinc oxide 4.04
Ferro frit 3134 7.07
Barium carbonate 2.02
Lithium carbonate 2.02
Bentonite 2.02
Tin oxide 1.01
Copper carbonate 0.61
Comments:
These are glazes I got on Maui. I make no claims regarding these
glazes' reliability or safety. I don't know of their origin. These
are in use at Hui No'Eau in Makawao, Maui. Sam Tomich
<aphesis@interpac.net>

Glaze name: Goodrich Mediterranean Blue
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: teal blue to black
Testing:
Surface: glossy
Firing: reduction
Recipe:
G-200 feldspar 33.30
Whiting 25.00
Kentucky OM #4 12.50
Flint 25.00
Zinc oxide 4.20
Cobalt carbonate 5.00
Chrome oxide 2.50
Comments:
from Don Satin smooth gloss. Deep teal (thick) to black(thin)

Glaze name: Green  Veerkamp 1
Cone: 10
Color: green
Testing:
Surface: Gloss
Firing: Reduction
Transparency: Translucent
Recipe:
Red clay 21.70
Custer feldspar 46.23
Whiting 18.87
Talc 3.77
Bone ash 4.72
Gerstley borate 4.72
Red iron oxide 2.83
Comments:
This is one of my favorite
green glazes that I used successfully for a number of years on c10
production ware. It's a medium to dark green gloss that breaks nicely
on dark clays; pools dark green to sometimes blue. Looks good on
porcelain also. ***Castle Rock red is (was) a clay mined in Castle
Rock, CO, and used to be available from Mile-Hi Ceramics in Denver.
It was a sorta dull mustard yellow in the unfired state and fired to
a toasty terra cotta red at c1-2. A friend of mine substituted Red
Art for the CRR and the results were much the same (though not
exactly). submitted by: Patrick Veerkamp e-mail:
veerkamp@southwestern.edu

Glaze name: Honey Gold
Cone: 8 - 10
Color: Amber
Testing:
Surface: Gloss
Firing:
Flow: Moderate
Recipe:
Potash feldspar 37.50
Flint 26.80
Whiting 15.70
Ball clay 10.70
Barium carbonate 5.50
Gerstley borate 3.80
Red iron oxide 9.80
Manganese dioxide 3.60
Bentonite 2.00
Comments:
Dark brown, glaze. Runs above cone 9 and if thick.  It is a beautiful glaze which is translucent
with incredible depth,
appearing like honey. Sam aphesis@interpac.net

Glaze name: Honey Weiser's
Cone: 9
Color: amber yellow
Testing:
Surface: Gloss
Firing: Reduction
Transparency: Transparent
Recipe:
Potash feldspar 36.70
Flint 25.50
Whiting 18.90
Ball clay 9.20
Soda feldspar 5.10
Kaolin 2.60
Dolomite 2.00
Red iron oxide 8.00
Comments:
This is a dark glaze the can obscure slip and carving if thick. Good glaze surface.
I've tried both of these glazes with mixed results.
The amber celadon is almost identical to Cushing Amber Celadon. This
is a better transparent amber honey glaze. RafaelMolina-Rodriguez rmr3431@dcccd.edu
Variations --
+6% RIO= greener brown color
4% RIO = grey-green color like a celadon.

Glaze name: K9
Cone: 10
Color: blue/purple
Testing: Untested
Surface: shiny glossy
Firing: reduction
Recipe:
Custer feldspar 60.68
Kaolin 5.33
Dolomite 9.94
Ball clay 9.10
Barium carbonate 5.33
Whiting 4.81
Silica 4.81
Red iron oxide 2.09
Rutile 4.50
Comments:
NOTE: use powdered rutile, not granular Here is a C10 reduction
recipe for a blue/purples you may like: submitted by: Richard Gralnik
e-mail: rlg@desktalk.com

Glaze name: Lavender Splotchy Glaze
Cone: 10
Color: lavender
Testing: Untested
Surface: Shiny or Glossy
Firing: reduction
Transparency: Opaque
Recipe:
Barium carbonate 2.02
Calcined Zinc Oxide 4.04
Lithium carbonate 2.02
Whiting 14.14
Custer feldspar 50.51
Ferro frit 3134 7.07
Silica, (325 mesh) 20.20
Copper carbonate 0.61
Tin oxide 1.01
Bentonite 1.01
Comments:
GREAT BLUE/RED /DARK BLUE! My experience with copper red is that what
matters most is to begin reduction at cone 012 fairly heavy and then
go into moderate reduction after cone 05 drops. Continue moderate to
light reduction until cone 10 then a brief oxidation peroid of about
10 minutes. If you over reduce it will be liver brown and under
reduced will be celadon.  submitted
by: John Britt e-mail: claydude@erinet.com

Glaze name: Mayan Blue
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: teal to dark blue
Testing:
Surface:
Firing: reduction
Recipe:
Gerstley borate 50.00
EPK 15.00
Flint 35.00
Bentonite 20.00
Chrome oxide 10.00
Cobalt carbonate 10.00
Comments:
from Clayart about a year ago Deep teal over white slip. other wise
dark blue/black where thick. Brown where thin. Crawled slightly over
the slip. All tiles were fired to a (hard)^9 (10
tipping)reduction firing. 1 hr.  Tracy
Wilson Saltbox Pottery 4 Shaw Rd. Woolwich, ME 04579 phone:
207-443-5586 fax: 207-442-8922 email: saltbox@ime.net web:
http://www.ime.net/~dwilson/

Glaze name: Moonglow
Cone: 9-10
Color: green
Testing: Tested
Surface: Waxy
Firing: Reduction
Glaze type: High-fire
Transparency: Opaque
Visual texture: Speckled
Crystals: None
Bubbles: None
Flow: Slight
Recipe:
Custer feldspar 34.90
Dolomite 15.40
Whiting 5.30
EPK 9.40
Silica 35.00
Black iron oxide 1.00
Cobalt carbonate 0.20
Chromium oxide 0.20
Comments:
UF Shop glaze. Buttery dull green with small brown spots. Dependable.


Glaze name: Moonlight
Cone: 10
Color: rutile blue
Testing: Untested
Surface: fluid glossy, shiny
Firing: Reduction
Recipe:
Cornwall Stone 63.80
Gerstley borate 14.30
Flint 7.60
Whiting 7.60
EPK 4.80
Zinc oxide 1.90
Rutile 3.20
Ilmenite, Powdered 2.04
Comments:
Here's a couple that I have tried and added to my regulars (both come
from clayart folks). The Moonlight will run if applied to thick. If
you are looking for a shiny glaze try the Moonlight. Chris Fennimore
Native American Rights Fund Boulder, CO christine fennimore

Glaze name: Opal Blue
Cone: 10
Color: blue
Testing: Untested
Surface: ?
Firing: reduction
Recipe:
Neph Sy 35.57
Dolomite 17.13
Zinc oxide 2.49
Whiting 3.12
Kaolin 5.92
Flint 35.77
Rutile 5.01
Comments:
Doesn't add up properly, but the glaze worked. Here's a glaze you
could try called Opal Blue, it's more medium blue with a lighter blue
on top. It was one of my favorites when I had access to a gas
kiln....sigh.... It is very pretty. from anne chambers

Glaze name: Purple (from Walter Donald Kring)
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: Purple
Testing: Untested
Surface: glossy, shiny
Firing: reduction
Glaze type: Copper red
Transparency: Opaque
Recipe:
Dolomite 9.40
Gerstley borate 13.60
Whiting 2.70
Zinc oxide 1.80
Potash feldspar 43.60
Kaolin 1.80
Flint 27.10
Cobalt carbonate 0.05
Copper carbonate 0.50
Tin oxide 3.00
Comments:
For a beautiful purple glaze rafael molina-rodriguez (rafael
molina-rodriguez)

Glaze name: Purple Coleman's
Cone: 10
Color: purple red
Testing: Untested
Surface: shiny, glossy
Firing: Ox. or Red.
Glaze type: Copper red
Transparency: Opaque
Recipe:
Barium carbonate 5.00
Dolomite 5.00
Gerstley borate 5.00
Whiting 8.00
Zinc oxide 2.50
Custer feldspar 49.80
Silica, 200 mesh 24.90
Tin oxide 1.00
Cobalt carbonate 0.20
Copper carbonate 2.00
Comments:
I've used the following Coleman Purple (Cone 10, reduction) with good
results. It came from the September 1984 Ceramics Monthly. In
addition to this glaze, there are other excellent glazes to
experiment with. Try the Oxblood Red Glaze. submitted by: Randy
Brodnax e-mail: RCB3431@dcccd.edu

Glaze name: Purple Emily
Cone: 9
Color: Purple
Testing: Untested
Surface: matt
Firing: Ox. or Red.
Glaze type: Magnesium matt
Transparency: Opaque
Recipe:
Potash feldspar 41.00
Colemanite 12.00
Dolomite 7.00
Talc 15.00
Tennessee #5 ball clay 5.00
Silica 20.00
Cobalt oxide 2.00
Bentonite 2.00
Tin oxide 2.00
Comments:
Here's a ^9 'Emily G. Purple' I used to use 15 years ago. It has a wonderful buttery texture
and is very purple. submitted by: Elizabeth Beth Fusaro e-mail:
elfusaro@freenet.scri.fsu.edu

Glaze name: Raspberry Red to Pale Seagreen
Cone: 10
Color: Raspberry Red to Pale Seagreen
Testing: Untested
Surface: Shiny or Glossy
Firing: reduction
Recipe:
Custer feldspar 30.91
Whiting 22.36
Silica 25.32
Talc 7.81
EPK 12.55
Bone ash 1.05
Copper Oxide 5.49
Comments:
FLUID, DO NOT DIP. THIN USE W/ CHUN/YANIGARA/HT/BLACK STAIN June: I
have used this oribe as an accent glaze only. Thick it is green with
a shine, but not a gloss to it. Thin, it is pink (reduced). I found
that flung from a brush through a seive will produce light pink fine
spatter. I use it with a chun that has tin oxide, but no other
colorant and a semi matt white, from a potter by the name of
Yanigara. If you like the way it behaves, Ill send the Yanigara rx as
well. It is a favorite of mine. submitted by: Donald Goldsobel
e-mail: pots@pacificnet.net

Glaze name: Splotchy Lavender Glaze
Cone: 10
Color: lavender
Testing: Untested
Surface: Shiny or Glossy
Firing: reduction
Recipe:
Barium carbonate 2.02
Calcined Zinc Oxide 4.04
Lithium carbonate 2.02
Whiting 14.14
Custer feldspar 50.51
Ferro Frit 3134 7.07
Silica, (325 mesh) 20.20
Copper carbonate 0.61
Tin oxide 1.01
Bentonite 1.01
Comments:
GREAT BLUE/RED /DARK BLUE! My experience with copper red is that what
matters most is to begin reduction at cone 012 fairly heavy and then
go into moderate reduction after cone 05 drops. Continue moderate to
light reduction until cone 10 then a brief oxidation peroid of about
10 minutes. If you over reduce it will be liver brown and under
reduced will be celadon. One solution to a problem (uneven, spotty
reduction and under reduced)we had was to turn down the gas and air.
To slow it down and reduce at the above schedule. We were firing in
an Alpine updraft with blowers and just running the same schedule as
the people who fired before us. (It was a community center). They
were firing at 4 pounds pressure (natural gas) with the blowers at
70. Something like that. But we reduced the gas and the air and the
firing was 100% better. No more spotty reduction or unreduced pots.
(I kind of miss those unwanted interesting results though.) submitted
by: John Britt e-mail: claydude@erinet.com

Glaze name: Strawberry Crush George's
Cone: 9
Color: red/ blue/ purple/ white
Testing:
Surface: glossy shiny
Firing: Reduction
Glaze type: Copper red
Transparency: Opaque
Recipe:
Potash feldspar 45.45
Flint 25.25
Whiting 14.14
Zinc oxide 4.04
Ferro frit 3134 7.07
Barium carbonate 2.02
Lithium carbonate 2.02
Bentonite 2.02
Tin oxide 1.01
Copper carbonate 0.61
Comments:
These are glazes I got on Maui. I make no claims regarding these
glazes' reliability or safety. I don't know of their origin. These
are in use at Hui No'Eau in Makawao, Maui. Sam Tomich
<aphesis@interpac.net>

Glaze name: Teal blue-green tourquoise
Cone: 10
Color: Teal blue green tourquoise
Testing:
Surface:
Firing:
Recipe:
Potash feldspar 39.05
Dolomite 12.92
Colemanite 5.79
Magnesium carbonate 2.36
Zinc oxide 1.13
Kaolin 9.42
Flint 29.33
Cobalt oxide 0.50
Chrome oxide 0.50
Bentonite 0.30
Comments:
This has been fired in reduction but I suspect it will work in
oxidation. If anybody tries it in oxidation, please let me know the
results. I love this stuff as an accent. It has a long firing range,
I suspect ^9 - ^11. It's very forgiving, very stiff and should go on
just fine as a light cream consistency dipped. Peace and long
life....and yes, it's raining but I saw two rainbows yesterday while
cleaning porch # 1 with mildicide Emily emily henderson
<epfizh@mail.pacifier.com>

Glaze name: Textured Blue
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: deep purple to blue
Testing:
Surface: satin matte
Firing: reduction
Recipe:
G-200 feldspar 21.03
Nepheline syenite 21.03
Kentucky OM #4 4.53
Gerstley borate 11.82
Dolomite 7.53
Talc 14.44
Silica 19.61
Cobalt oxide 3.00
Comments:
Satin glaze. Deep purple where thick. Midnight blue where medium.
soft purple with slip. Well I finally got around to typing this thing
up...^9-10 Blues Thank you one and all for all the donated recipes. I
only tested 31 out of almost 100 I received. I'll continue testing
and reporting as the winter DRAGS on. All the glazes were tested on
#900 Miller clay which is a toasty ^10 stoneware. One side of the
test tile was brushed with a thick coating of Cynthia Bringle's
wet/dry white slip. Each glaze was dipped in three thicknesses on a
heavily textured tile. All tiles were fired to a (hard)^9 (10
tipping)reduction firing. 1 hr. Body reduction at ^08 and 1 hr. glaze
reduction at ^9 then a quick reox. before shutdown. Any time potash
or Custer spar is called for, I used G-200. All ball clay is OM-4 .
Many glazes I substituted 75% of the amount of Barium with Strontium.
All kaolin is EPK. Remember... glazes don't travel well. Your results
will probably be TOTALLY different. Please test before use. Tracy
Wilson Saltbox Pottery 4 Shaw Rd. Woolwich, ME 04579 phone:
207-443-5586 fax: 207-442-8922 email: saltbox@ime.net web:
http://www.ime.net/~dwilson/

Glaze name: Touch of Moon
Cone: 10
Color: jade green
Testing:
Surface: semi-matte
Firing:
Recipe:
Nepheline syenite 50.00
Whiting 30.00
EPK 20.00
Cobalt carbonate 1.00
Chrome oxide 1.00
Comments:
Dark semi-matt jade/marble green. Looks like stone. ( I never
understood this name) I use Dave's porcelain from Laguna. Dean
McRaine <beezer@aloha.net> on the north shore of Kauai

Glaze name: Turquoise
Cone: 10
Color: Turquoise
Testing:
Surface: Satin matt
Firing:
Glaze type: Magnesium matt
Transparency: Opaque
Recipe:
Custer spar 34.50
Gerstley borate 4.00
Dolomite 18.10
Whiting 4.00
EPK 23.30
Silica 16.10
Cobalt carbonate 1.00
Chrome oxide 0.50
Comments:
Bulletproof. Great at all temps and thicknesses. Very stable I use
Dave's porcelain from Laguna. Dean McRaine <beezer@aloha.net> on the
north shore of Kauai

Glaze name: V.C. AA COPPER BLUE-GREEN
Cone: 9-10
Color: Semi-Opaque Blue-Green
Testing: Tested
Surface: Matte
Firing: Reduction
Glaze type: Ca
Recipe:
Cornwall Stone 46.00
Whiting 34.00
EPK 20.00
Copper carbonate 4.00
Tin oxide 4.00
Comments:
Good copper blue without barium. Webs and streaks nicely. VC ed

Glaze name: V.C. Karen Starshine
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: Opaque
Testing: Tested
Surface: Glossy or shiny
Firing: Ox. or Red.
Recipe:
K-200  Feldspar 51.00
Soda ash 4.00
Gerstley borate 6.00
Whiting 13.00
Barium carbonate 4.00
Lithium carbonate 1.00
Flint 21.00
Macaloid 2.00
Titanium dioxide 2.00
Comments:
TESTED SAFE from Ba release. Au Sp. '92 ****Glossy w/ depth. 1% CuCO3
= seafoam; 5% CuCO3 = aqua w/ rust where thin. 8% Fe2O3 = brandy
thin, sea green thick. Definitely RUNNY. 'What makes this glaze so
active is soda ash, GB, Li; the only non-flux is flint. And low
Alumina - there's nothing stabilizing the glaze. Almost a C/04 glaze
- ref. to limit formulas'- VC. Preferred Ba to Sr version w/ all
colorants. Good in SODA. VC ed

Glaze name: V.C. Polished Marble
Cone: 9 - 10
Color: Off-white
Testing: Untested
Surface: Satin Matt
Firing: Ox or Red
Glaze type: Ca Ba AlMatt
Recipe:
Grolleg 30.00
Whiting 30.00
Barium carbonate 30.00
Flint 10.00
Rutile 4.00
Comments:
With 4% Rutile gives dusty rose, thick is dark purple lavender. Webs
and streaks like wood ash glaze. Glaze Type: Ca Ba AlMatt. Opacity:
Transparent. Firing type: Ox or Red From Val Cushing. VC ed

Glaze name: White / Lavender Waxy
Cone: 10
Color: white base
Testing:
Surface: Waxy
Firing:
Glaze type: Magnesium matt
Recipe:
Custer feldspar 38.32
Gerstley borate 15.89
Dolomite 6.54
Talc 15.89
Ball clay 4.67
Flint 18.69
Bentonite 1.40
Zircopax 4.67
Comments:
(May use G-200 instead of Custer.)
--- for lavender add 1 cobalt oxide --- to breakup surface a bit add
2 Lithium carbonate -- Bulletproof. Smooth semimatt. White is good
over colored slips. Lavender is great, ranges from pinkish to almost
blue, popular. All temps and thicknesses. Good in reduction. I use
Dave's porcelain from Laguna. Dean McRaine <beezer@aloha.net> on the
north shore of Kauai

Glaze name: White Temple
Cone: 10
Color: white
Testing:
Surface: Waxy
Firing:
Transparency: Opaque
Recipe:
Potash feldspar 34.31
Dolomite 19.31
Whiting 2.55
EPK 22.25
Flint 19.61
Bentonite 1.96
Comments:
Try Temple white, the work horse of all glazes. It doesn't mark at all.
It fires semi matt to semi gloss, cone 10 soft to down Marking is
something customers shouldn't have to deal with, especially at
stoneware temps. And this glaze DOESN'T craze on my clay body:t-3
from Sheffield. I have pie plates I've used for over 10 years without
one craze. Good luck!